From the blog

Cook It, Cool It, Keep It. The Part Nobody Tells You About Cooled Rice and Potatoes.

Quick answers

Does reheating cooled rice make it safe?
No. The bacterium is killed by heat, but the toxin it produces is not. Cereulide is resistant to heat and acid during cooking [3], so thorough reheating destroys the bacteria and leaves the compound that makes you ill.
How long can I keep cooled starches?
Cool them fast and refrigerate within an hour. Eat cooled rice within a day, other cooled starches and pulses within three to four days. Anything left out overnight goes in the bin, however it looks and smells.
Is there anything that makes it safer?
Acid. In one study, growth and toxin production were inhibited in foods made with vinegar, mayonnaise or ketchup, apparently because of the lower pH [1]. A potato salad dressed while warm is the safer version of a cooled potato.

Cooking starch and cooling it overnight really does create resistant starch, and it also creates the exact conditions behind two of the better documented kinds of food poisoning. The rule that keeps it safe is short: cool it fast and refrigerate within an hour, never leave cooked starch out overnight, eat cooled rice within a day and other cooled starches within three to four days, refrigerate potatoes unwrapped rather than sealed in foil, and use something acidic where the dish allows it, which in one study inhibited both growth and toxin production [1]. Reheating does not rescue rice that has been left out, because the toxin survives heat [3].

Here is why each of those rules exists.

Cooking starch and then cooling it does change it. Some of the starch reorganizes into a form your enzymes cannot easily break down, it travels on to your gut bacteria instead of into your bloodstream, and that is a real effect worth having.

I recommend the technique. I use it. Cooked and cooled potatoes, a big pot of lentils on a Sunday, rice made the night before if you eat rice.

What almost nobody mentions alongside the advice is that cooked starch, cooled slowly and kept for days, is also the setup behind two of the better documented kinds of food poisoning. Not obscure ones. Rice and potatoes specifically.

So here is the part that usually gets left out.

What happens to cooled rice?

Bacillus cereus lives in soil and arrives on rice, grains and vegetables. Cooking kills the bacteria. It does not kill their spores.

As the food cools, those spores wake up. If the food then sits somewhere warm, they multiply and produce a toxin called cereulide.

The numbers are not marginal. In boiled rice held at 30 to 35 degrees, B. cereus grew to between ten million and a hundred million colonies per gram and produced emetic toxin [1]. When researchers sampled rice dishes from ordinary restaurants, the toxin was present in 7.4% of them on the day of sampling. After the dishes were left at 25 degrees, that rose to 12.9% [2].

Does reheating cooled rice make it safe?

Reheating cooled rice does not make it safe.

Cereulide is resistant to heat and acid during cooking [3]. You can reheat rice until it steams, kill every bacterium in it, and the toxin will still be there.

This is the single most common mistake, and it is an understandable one. Reheating thoroughly feels like the responsible thing to do. It does nothing whatsoever to the compound that makes you ill.

Usually the result is a few unpleasant hours. Occasionally it is not. A published case series describes five adults who ate fried rice balls, one of whom developed acute liver failure and kidney damage, with cereulide measured at 37 micrograms per gram of food [3]. That is rare. I mention it once, so that the storage rules read as worth following rather than as fussiness; naming how rare a rare thing is is part of the standard here.

Why are potatoes a different problem?

The risk with potatoes is not B. cereus. It is botulism, and specifically from being wrapped and left out.

In 1994 in El Paso, thirty people developed botulism and four needed mechanical ventilation. The source was foil-wrapped baked potatoes that had been held at room temperature for several days before being made into dips. Among the people who ate the potato dip, 86% became ill [4].

The foil is the problem. It keeps oxygen out, which is exactly what Clostridium botulinum needs. A cooked potato sealed in foil on a warm counter is a small anaerobic laboratory.

The researchers' conclusion was blunt: consumers should be told about the hazard of holding foil-wrapped potatoes at room temperature after cooking [4].

Does anything make cooled starch safer?

Acid does. In the study of cereulide production across different foods, growth and toxin were inhibited in foods made with vinegar, mayonnaise and ketchup, apparently because of the lower pH [1].

Which means a potato salad, dressed with vinegar and mustard while the potatoes are still warm, is not only the best version of the cook-and-cool technique. It is the safer one.

If you have been making plain cooled potatoes and adding something later, the dressing was never the optional part.

How do you cook and cool starch safely?

Cool it fast. Out of the hot pan, spread out so it loses heat quickly, into the fridge within an hour. A big covered pot cooling gently on the hob overnight is precisely the condition to avoid.

Never leave cooked starch out overnight. Rice, potatoes, pasta, lentils. If it has been on the side since dinner, it goes in the bin. It will look and smell completely normal.

Refrigerate potatoes unwrapped or loosely covered. Never sealed in foil at room temperature.

Eat cooled rice within a day. Other cooled starches and pulses within three to four days.

Reheat once, thoroughly, or eat it cold. Do not reheat twice. Do not use reheating to rescue something that has been out.

Use acid where the dish allows. Vinegar, lemon, mustard, mayonnaise.

Freeze what you will not get through. It removes the arithmetic entirely.

Is cooking and cooling still worth doing?

Cooking and cooling your starches is a good habit and I am not walking it back. The resistant starch is real, your gut bacteria make use of it, and it costs you nothing but a night in the fridge.

It comes with one condition, and it is a single habit rather than a system: the pan comes off the heat and the food goes into the fridge, not onto the side to deal with later.

Cool it fast, keep it cold, dress it with something acidic, and throw out anything that spent the night on the counter. That is the whole of it.

Sources

  1. Agata N, Ohta M, Yokoyama K. Production of Bacillus cereus emetic toxin (cereulide) in various foods. Int J Food Microbiol. 2002;73(1):23-7. doi.org/10.1016/s0168-1605(01)00692-4
  2. Delbrassinne L, Andjelkovic M, Dierick K, Denayer S, Mahillon J, Van Loco J. Prevalence and levels of Bacillus cereus emetic toxin in rice dishes randomly collected from restaurants and comparison with the levels measured in a recent foodborne outbreak. Foodborne Pathog Dis. 2012;9(9):809-14. doi.org/10.1089/fpd.2012.1168
  3. Schreiber N, Hackl G, Reisinger AC, et al. Acute liver failure after ingestion of fried rice balls- a case series of Bacillus cereus food poisonings. Toxins (Basel). 2021;14(1):12. doi.org/10.3390/toxins14010012
  4. Angulo FJ, Getz J, Taylor JP, et al. A large outbreak of botulism- the hazardous baked potato. J Infect Dis. 1998;178(1):172-7. doi.org/10.1086/515615

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